Eco-friendliness and natural formulations remain key priorities within the European hair care market. At the same time, there’s been a marked increase in brand launches in the niche solid shampoo and conditioner segments.
Meanwhile, the blurring of skin care and hair care continues apace. Launches feature ingredients commonly found in skin care that offer hybrid hair care and skin care benefits.

European hair care sales were hard hit by the pandemic. All hair care categories declined in 2020, driven by reduced consumer spending overall amid the height of the pandemic.

Sales, including products sold through hair salons, were nearly $18.3 billion in 2019. They slid to about $17.6 billion last year, according to GlobalData. Sales declined in all hair care categories driven by reduced consumer spending overall amid the height of the pandemic. Salon hair care, in particular, faltered as it saw the most decline in percentage terms that same year due to the temporary closure of hairdressing locations.

“Consumers are highly likely to take a more relaxed approach in comparison to their previous hair care routines prior to the pandemic,” explains Khadija Begum, associate analyst, GlobalData.

She points out that 26% of European consumers are still extremely concerned about the impact of COVID-19.


Benefits & Convenience Are Trending

Despite discouraging sales figures in the short-term, benefit- and conveniece-focused NPD is still relevant to the European hair care market and continues to evolve.

“Innovations in these areas need to evolve continually in order to stay relevant and stand out,” explains Rosalia di Gesu, global beauty and personal care analyst, Mintel.

Key trends over the past 12 months include:

• Blurring with skin care in the form of skin care linked ingredients or hybrid skin care/hair care merits. Examples include ingredient-led skin care brand, The Inkey List, moving into scalp treatments (salicylic acid and caffeine variants) and hair treatments (peptide, hyaluronic acid); and Coco & Eve’s Like A Virgin Deep Clean Scalp Scrub contains Balinese botanicals.
• Disruptive textures that align with convenient demands. Wella’s WeDo is a multi-purpose range that combines skin and hair care, with a moisturizing cream that can be used on the hair or hands; Protect Balm lip balm is suitable for hair ends.
• Newer benefits center around themes such as supporting emotional wellness. Colab’s Overnight Renew Dry Shampoo absorbs oils and cares for the scalp as well. The formula contains calming amber and tonka, eucalyptus and lavender essential oils; all coming together to make for a restful sleep, according to Colab.

Sustainable and Natural

Brands are making their products and packaging environmentally-friendly by focusing on sustainably and ethically sourced ingredients and materials. According to GlobalData’s Q1 2021 Consumer Survey, 30% of European consumers cite environmentally friendly packaging as a key driver of purchase.

“Additionally, brands are aiming to reduce carbon emissions by choosing more sustainable ways to produce their products,” affirms Begum. As proof, she pointed to an initiative by Procter & Gamble that revolves around 100% aluminium reusable bottles and recyclable refill pouches for its hair care products. Elsewhere, Schwarzkopf and TerraCycle partnered to launch packaging recycling initiatives. The programs encourage consumers to get involved by offering incentives such as prizes to encourage the reduction of waste. The recycled items will be reused and contribute toward the manufacture of new products, according to the companies.

“As brands invest in more sustainable initiatives, it will result in an increased level of consumer interest,” Begum noted.

According to Mintel researchers, consumers seek more natural, simpler and minimal ingredient formulas that are perceived as gentler on the scalp and hair. More natural options are gaining ground in chemical-heavy segments such as hair colorants. UK-based Josh Wood Colour, for example, has introduced a range of ammonia-free hair colorants that are formulated with natural ingredients that come with a deep conditioning treatment to nourish hair. According to Mintel, nearly a third of UK home hair colorant buyers said they would spend more on hair color products with natural or eco formulas.


Eco-driven Formats

Garnier is one of the most notable entrants in mass market hair care to expand into solid hair care formats. Its shampoo bar range includes Coconut & Organic Aloe Vera (for normal hair), Delicate Oat (for sensitive scalps & fragile hair) and Honey Treasures (for damaged hair that’s prone to breakage). Each bar is said to last for as long as two months. According to the brand, this is its first shampoo bar that is free of plastic waste and “full of care for your hair and for the planet.” Furthermore, each variant is said to be silicone free (for a “natural feel”) and has a 97% biodegradable formula and likely to appeal to environmentally conscious consumers.

“Entrants from the mass market and private label players, as well as choices beyond shampoo, are disrupting the niche but booming eco-friendly solid shampoo segment,” explains di Gesu.

Examples from Mintel’s GNPD database include:

• Bleach London's Rosé Shampoo bar blurs the boundaries between bar shampoo and hair dye by cleansing the hair and depositing a buildable pastel rose shade.
• Own brand Müller Aveo Prachtstücke combines shampoo and conditioner in a solid format, marketed as “water-reduced,” vegan and micro-plastic-free.
• Ben & Anna entered the niche single-use shampoo tablet segment. The tablets are sold in two dozen batches, all packaged in a paper pouch to help reduce waste.
• Puremetics’ Shampoo Powder comes in a paper box that can be applied directly to wet hair or pre-mixed with hot water and steeped overnight to create a creamy shampoo. It saves plastic and storage space and claims to be 100% climate neutral in its shipping.

“Solid hair care is likely to be a long-term trend as sustainability concerns have grown in interest over the years, and products that offer sustainability benefits are likely to continue to generate sales and interest,” says Begum.

According to GlobalData’s Q2 2021 Consumer Survey, most European consumers (66%) find sustainable/ethically sourced ingredients somewhat/very appealing, which suggests that they are likely to continue to influence consumers’ purchasing habits.

Eco credentials are likely to dominate the European hair care market in the foreseeable future as brands tap consumer demand for products that have a reduced impact on the environment. Solid hair care formats are a beneficiary and look set to move into the mainstream.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
 
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.